There is a Polar Bear turned to stone by a powerful Shaman long ago to watch over Nain. He forever guards the harbor and people from the mountain southeast of the harbor. Ken has flown home to adventures of his own and I’m preparing for the long and somewhat lonelier sail north. It’s not being alone that makes one lonely, but seeing such wonders of man and nature without company to share it with. It helps tremendously that you are with me.

Where I docked seemed to me to be the social center of Nain. Sometime during the day most everyone in town came to the dock with rod and reel to catch an Arctic Char. If they didn’t fish, they came to see those who did. But it was the children what came and came and came. “What’s your name? Is that your boat? Can I come on board? Where are you from?” I learned to say “Port Angeles Washington, near Forks!” (Forks Washington is far more famous in the world now than Port Angeles). They gathered on the pier even after dark and I fell asleep to the music of their laughter.

But laughter often hides broken hearts. The north is not without its problems, mostly imported from the south, drugs, alcohol, and cigarettes. Too damn much candy from the looks of teeth. There had been four tragedies in the last few weeks. Suicide, the permanent solution to temporary problems. And drowning. There are few second chances in the cold water of the north.

I awoke to the sound of a slow turning diesel engine slinging one massive propeller in docking maneuvers. I have a neighbor. He is the WANDERBIRD from Main on expedition to Greenland with a group of intrepid souls. I chat with crew on the dock. Young, eager to see the world, each carrying the unmistakable mark of a true seaman; a sheath knife with a lanyard securing it to the belt. They would have been at home climbing the rigging of the LADY WASHINGTON.

Captain Rick and Chief Mate Karen held a hotdog roast for anyone willing to brave the long line. They have imported a boat load of love to Nain. You would do well to book a passage on WANDERBIRD when she comes north again rather than another summer on a hot beach and cold hotel.




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