I start dodging ice again just past Rock of Ages Lighthouse as I make my way to John’s Island at the southern end of Isle Royale. There’s this cove calling me. But, once again ice proves the master and I have to anchor in the shallow channel between Thompson Island and John’s Island. It’s fast ice from island to island and up the Washington channel. No going any farther in side Isle Royale today.
The snow and ice make this one of the quietest places I’ve ever been. The only sounds at all are the ones I make. The anchor chain going out. The creaking of the trampoline as I walk across from aka to aka. The hiss of the fireplace flame. The peace settles over the boat and over me. I am bathed in quiet again and it cleans the spirit.
The evening is a parade of colors in the sky and water and the ever present ice. Look down to write, look up again, it’s changed. The ice cakes are returning to the harbor channel. Something unforeseen moves them. Maybe it’s current or a wind so light I can’t see or feel it. Maybe the fast ice is a magnet to its own kind. I don’t know, but here they come, slowly, like tired sheep to the manger. The blue and pink of sunset give way to gray and black. It’s night between the islands and among the ice and onboard the Cap’n Lem at Lat 47®53.3’N~Long 089® 14.27’W.
Capt Tommy:
I look forward to following your progress. As a Lake Superior Sailor, I have been to Washington harbor a few times in the summer and intend to head there this year as well. For you to be there right now must be a truly magical time that few will ever experience. Drink it all in and let us know what you find.
Sail on
John Danicic
Cape Dory 36 – Mariah – #124
Lake Superior – The Apostle Islands
Beautiful!
Good way to start the day knowing that you are safe..
Capt. Tommy: Just checked the Canadian Ice Service website and it looks good. “Fast Ice” on the south shore of the island, more on the north shore. Hope you get on your way as our weather warms up. Lots of good comments on our little radio interview. Smooth sailing!
Everything dynamic and very positively! 🙂
Wishing you well on this voyage. A dream for many of us over a lifetime to be finally realized in virtuality sailing with you on your classic adventure.
I will spread the word here in Lunenburg NS where sailing is a great tradition and the Bluenose still sails.
You make me want to get down to the yard right now and begin the season.
Allan Brown
PS – thanks to Good Old Boat for the heads up via email.
[…] Not everyone is in cruising in warm waters, some are exploring other sides of this planet. But no less beautiful I would say. Following Tommy Cook on his Arctic travels aboard CAP’N LEM is very intriguing, you can almost hear the silence… […]