The CAP’N LEM is in Labrador. Belle Isle is lost on the southern horizon haze. We’re rarely out of the sight of an iceberg. Getting underway this morning from my tranquil anchorage where never a rock of the boat woke me in the night, we picked our way around and out first the Miller Tickle and then the very narrow Antelope Tickle. How could I resist taking the CAP’N LEM thru a passage named Antelope Tickle?

I see on the large scale charts showing many of the small narrow passages are called “Tickles”. It must refer to the way the tide current ripples through. Captain Le mould have loved that, he being one always quick for a play on words.

So out we go into a gentle rolling North Atlantic swell. Our morning dolphins display their speed winning the race, no contest. In the distance I see a great moving shoal like I’ve never seen before. As we draw closer it becomes a mass of tightly packed sea birds all moving together. Closer still and they take flight almost as closely packed as they swam. I don’t know what they were but they were wonderful. The morning whale comes to the surface to greet us with a blow and that signals the end of the GOODMORNING CAP’T LEM show. Nature draws the curtain with a white fog over all while preparing the next act.

The fog is dense in width and shallow in height. A warm sun makes its way to my shoulders and is welcome. I never curse the fog but rather just deal with it. This time the fog brings a Southeast wind and the wind is energy. The wind turns the whole world underneath the CAP’N LEM.

At 1410, the odometer on the GPS shows we have traveled 3000 nautical miles since leaving Two Harbors Minnesota on April 6th. I don’t torture myself with how far I have to go.

Sunset and I find a little cove near Ship Tickle Island at Lat 52⁰ 43′ 53.2″N ~ Long 055⁰ 49′ 46.3″W. It’s a small fishing village.

So ends this day.


John asks: What have you done to prepare should a polar bear get on board?

Well, first, I’m more apt to be eaten by mosquitoes than a polar bear. I thought I could just feed him cookies and hope he gets full before I run out of cookies, but a handheld signal flare would be my first choice. No firearms on board. The customs guys would have eaten me.

7 Responses to “Labrador”

  1. Bumbazer says:

    Tommy, you are a poet with the words. I loved the “Good Morning Cap’t Lem Show”, I wish that I could be there watching as well. I have another question for you. I have heard that the tides are much higher and lower where you are at presently. How much do they rise and fall and how much anchorage and anchor do you have to have out.


  2. nacra 244 says:

    no need to buy any more ice for your cooler

  3. Jim in Baja says:

    The fog sounded really strange. How long did it last? Today’s iceberg picture is beautiful. How big was it? The answer to this next question is probably no, but can you shoot and upload video? I’ll bet some of your vicarious crew would get a real kick out of it. I know I would. Just a thought.

    We normally end our day here by checking in with the CAP’T LEM. Goodnight. Fair winds.

    Take care.


  4. Kari Thoresen says:

    Absolutely breathtaking!

  5. Dick Wisham says:

    Just to warm you up a bit, we went diving for scallops this weekend. Air temp was around 95 degrees and the water temp was about 85 degrees. If you could give one of those ice bergs a little push in this direction, it might cool us off a bit.

  6. Sam says:

    I’m worried about the icebergs! I wouldn’t think they’d make much of a radar target. Or does the Canadian maritime put radar reflectors on them? If not, for fear of a collision how can you sleep at night?

  7. capt bruce says:

    you know that a polar bear has never boarded a tri-mairan,but it does look like an iceberg.
    flares would work well yet i’m concerned of the compromise of a “solo” sail should the beast come aboard.
    bears are bad shipmates from the start,yet you have had Tiny aboard….
    a large Blond Bear…

    feed him … he WILL leave,,,
    no need for concern there…
    carry on and,
    i would like to recommend metimucal as an effective addition to your diet.

    the Franklin attempt at the northwest passage was crippled by cold, and lead,[ in the soldered cans holding the protein and the daily rations.]
    i can afford no advice yet i’m certain you’ve read Franklin’s Obituary.

    His grand mistake was to make a crazy run with as many men able to pull a sled.
    he promised those left behind, rescue and comfort ,
    then he left a trail of broken men and graves only to disappear,himself.

    you’ve read the story.

    creak past those bergy bits and sleep when you can.

    my thoughts are with you,

    capt bruce