I’m not traveling at night as long as there are anchorages to be found. So tonight I’m anchored just north of Indian Tickle at latitude 53⁰ 34′ 01.2″N ~ Longitude 055⁰ 59′ 34.9″W.

It’s the icebergs or rather, the tears of the icebergs, the bergybits, I must avoid in the dark. All around the ancient giants that have drifted from Greenland to die grounded on the shores of Labrador are tears of diamond. This is not your last winter’s sea ice all soft and salty but ten thousand year old snowflakes pressured to perfection in ice, clear, clean, some the size of a car, easy to see, some the size of a dinner table, not so easy to see, but each as hard as any rock on shore and just as dangerous. They command respect and I give it.

When I have reason though, I sneak up on one very carefully to retrieve ice for my coolers. And it was while doing just that I discovered the most amazing thing about a bergybit…it sings! They sing as they die in the salty swell. It’s the sound of crystal glass being broken in the fireplace after a toast, but no quite. It’s a sound like the bubbles in a bubble bath popping, but not quite. It was the sound of the fizz of a soda pop, but… well, you get the picture. And I only had to touch it with my knife point for it to yield all the ice I needed.

What will I learn next?

Oh I must tell you this also. I saw my first Right Whales today. One alone and three in a pod.


10 Responses to “Sings”

  1. WillieFife says:

    Wonderful descriptions. Well, now you’re really getting north! And, if you’re going to be passing between Labrador and Greenland, soon (maybe tomorrow) you’ll be bending a bit west for the first time in your voyage.

  2. Jay Andersen says:

    Just to let you know we’re still following you and reporting on your progress at least once a week. Folks here in Grand Marais still remember the Captain Lem when you were docked in the marina. Continued good luck and smooth sailing.
    Jay Andersen
    WTIP News

  3. unstranger says:

    Better and better. Just been reading through the last half dozen posts.

    p.s. What is meant by letting her go into irons? At least I think that’s what you called it!

  4. ChuckFromFlorida says:

    I’ve been “lurking” since the beginning of you journey. What a journey it is. I’m jealous but you know, the job and all. Thanks for putting your journey on Google maps because there are also great pictures submitted by people who have been on the coasts along the way and some sea shots. I’ll be here until the end of the journey. I really liked your reports from the St. Lawrance and the Great Lakes. Keep up the great sailing and reporting.

    You may run into a couple of Royal Marines who are row/sailing a shorter distance up there in an open boat for “Toe in the Water”, a British Marine physical rehab org. If you see them be sure to wave. They put in by the Yukon and plan to be in Baffin Is. on Sept. 11. All of you are on incredible journies!

  5. WillieFife says:

    CBC News has just put up a video of humpback whales at Battle Harbour, Labrador. It was taken 18 July 2009. Pretty spectacular. Have a look.

  6. GlenStef says:

    Greatings, Super post, Need to mark it on Digg

  7. capt bruce says:

    an unsual thing just happened after i had read the blog.
    an over ripe watermelon i had purchased last week has begun to make a” crackling sound”.
    the bellybutton was pushing out a foam that,when an ear was bent close,sounded like champagne.
    thousands of miles away from my watermelon,ice speaks in a similar voice
    the bergy bits are warming the same foam that make that same tinkeling noise
    you hear.
    your ears will sometimes hear the same song from the northern lights
    the rush of the water past the hulls of the LEM
    the sounds of….nothing..and everything.

    capt bruce

    you understand it

  8. Bumbazer says:

    So does the ice sing before or after the Margaritas?

  9. Tom Boschma says:

    A close friend and sailing partener owned a fine F.31 similar to the Captain’s, died (prematurely) last year here in Melbourne. He always dreamed of adventures and trips- up the the coral coast, but somehow they were always just dreams. He would have loved to follow the Captains brave journey, but I am enjoying following it for him in a way.
    Now there are little singing ice things floating down from Greenland, it is starting to be a real adventure, and I will be following the Captain as an unseen companion. Very good.

  10. Transplant says:

    Thanks for taking us along with you. I really enjoy reading your descriptive narrative which takes me where I will never get to go in my life.