Archive for the ‘Labrador’ Category


Sunday, July 26th, 2009

The CAP’N LEM is in Labrador. Belle Isle is lost on the southern horizon haze. We’re rarely out of the sight of an iceberg. Getting underway this morning from my tranquil anchorage where never a rock of the boat woke me in the night, we picked our way around and out first the Miller Tickle and then the very narrow Antelope Tickle. How could I resist taking the CAP’N LEM thru a passage named Antelope Tickle?

I see on the large scale charts showing many of the small narrow passages are called “Tickles”. It must refer to the way the tide current ripples through. Captain Le mould have loved that, he being one always quick for a play on words.

So out we go into a gentle rolling North Atlantic swell. Our morning dolphins display their speed winning the race, no contest. In the distance I see a great moving shoal like I’ve never seen before. As we draw closer it becomes a mass of tightly packed sea birds all moving together. Closer still and they take flight almost as closely packed as they swam. I don’t know what they were but they were wonderful. The morning whale comes to the surface to greet us with a blow and that signals the end of the GOODMORNING CAP’T LEM show. Nature draws the curtain with a white fog over all while preparing the next act.

The fog is dense in width and shallow in height. A warm sun makes its way to my shoulders and is welcome. I never curse the fog but rather just deal with it. This time the fog brings a Southeast wind and the wind is energy. The wind turns the whole world underneath the CAP’N LEM.

At 1410, the odometer on the GPS shows we have traveled 3000 nautical miles since leaving Two Harbors Minnesota on April 6th. I don’t torture myself with how far I have to go.

Sunset and I find a little cove near Ship Tickle Island at Lat 52⁰ 43′ 53.2″N ~ Long 055⁰ 49′ 46.3″W. It’s a small fishing village.

So ends this day.


John asks: What have you done to prepare should a polar bear get on board?

Well, first, I’m more apt to be eaten by mosquitoes than a polar bear. I thought I could just feed him cookies and hope he gets full before I run out of cookies, but a handheld signal flare would be my first choice. No firearms on board. The customs guys would have eaten me.

Experience Labrador

Sunday, July 26th, 2009

– Ken here. Big thanks to George Barrett of Experience Labrador Tours. Tommy’s autotiller is working just fine – Tommy is a wizard with Epoxy – but just to be safe he decided he’d like a spare. Found one in stock here in Seattle and Express mailed it July 22nd, all the way to Cartwright, Labrador. George kindly offered his services delivering it to the marina there in Cartwright. Should get there middle of this week if all goes well.

No day finer

Saturday, July 25th, 2009

July 24, 2009: No day finer than this one. Were every day on the sea such as this and every wind on the quarter; cool but not cold, warm but not hot, the sun bright, the horizon clear, why the whole world would live on the water.

But change is inevitable and change on the water comes quickly. The wind dies, then comes up from the Northeast. Not hard though, not enough to kick up a sea so I manage to make it to Winter Cove near Anchor bay and anchor at Latitude 51⁰ 13’ 08” N ~ Longitude056⁰ 45’ 52” W in 19 feet of water just before sunset.

Another night of sleeping straight through, oh, how solo sailing makes such simple things the greatest of pleasures.

July 25, 2009: Underway to catch the outgoing tide, and the promise of another exceptional day. A whale breaks the surface just of the port quarter. I haven’t missed a day seeing a whale while I’m underwaysince my incounter with the white whales. My city at sea is populated by whales and dolphins and seabirds of every kind.

At 1150, way off on the horizon, I see my first iceberg. A moment later, there are two.

2230 The CAP’N LEM is in Labrador now, anchored at position 51⁰ 58’ 50.7”N ~ 055⁰ 54’ 09.8”W.